50 Years of Italian Cuisine in England: The Story of Giuseppe Fois
From Bosa to England: a journey through half a century of Italian restaurant evolution in the United Kingdom
Table of Contents
- Arrival in England: September 11, 1975
- An International Experience
- The Evolution of Italian Cuisine in the UK
- The Impact of Brexit on Restaurants
- Sardinian Roots: A Family of Taste Ambassadors
- The Philosophy of Service
- Advice for New Generations
Arrival in England: September 11, 1975
Giuseppe Fois, known to everyone as Gigi, has a story that represents the epic journey of thousands of Italians who brought Italian culinary culture abroad. Currently residing in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, Gigi arrived in England on September 11, 1975, beginning a professional journey that would span over fifty years.
First Steps in the Restaurant Industry
Gigi's career didn't start directly as a chef. He held various roles over the years, beginning as a chef de rang in an Italian restaurant, then moving to head waiter in the United States, before dedicating himself to management as a manager from 1986 until retirement.
An International Experience
From the Mediterranean to the Caribbean
Gigi's experience wasn't limited to England. He worked in France, Italy, and the United States, specifically in Miami, on cruise ships. This multicultural experience allowed him to gain a global vision of the restaurant industry and understand how Italian cuisine is perceived and appreciated in different cultural contexts.
A Privileged Perspective
Working in such diverse contexts gave Gigi a unique viewpoint on the evolution of culinary preferences and the expectations of international clients, experience he later transferred to his long career in England.
The Evolution of Italian Cuisine in the UK
The '70s and '80s: An Era of Scarcity
When Gigi arrived in England in the 1970s, the situation with Italian products was dramatically different from today. As he recounts:
- Spaghetti was half a meter long
- Parmesan arrived in large tins
- The English called it "farmer's socks" and refused to buy it
The Product Revolution
Over time, the arrival of exporters completely transformed the landscape. Today you can find:
- Fresh Parmesan
- Quality fresh pasta
- Brands like Divella
- Specialized supermarkets
The difference between English and Italian supermarkets has drastically reduced, making every type of Italian product accessible, "from A to Z" as Gigi emphasizes.
The Change in Taste
The British have become "very educated and sophisticated" about food. They travel, go to Italy, explore the world. Globalization, in this sense, has brought enormous advantages to the spread of authentic Italian cuisine.
The Impact of Brexit on Restaurants
The Crisis of Italian Chefs
Brexit marked a negative turning point for Italian restaurants in the UK. Gigi highlights concrete problems:
Lack of Qualified Staff
- The old chefs from the traditional school are now retired or close to retirement
- There's a decline in authentic Italian chefs
- Many restaurants are now run by English chefs or those of other nationalities
The Issue of Counterfeiting
"Fake Italian" restaurants have proliferated that have nothing authentic but still "are very popular." Product counterfeiting has also become a serious problem.
An Uncertain Future
Despite the difficulties, Gigi acknowledges that there have been "exceptional cooks both in London and in the north, scattered throughout England" who have introduced Italian cuisine well and have had great success. However, he expresses concern for the future and the difficulty for young Italians to enter the British market.
Sardinian Roots: A Family of Italian Ambassadors
Bosa: Small Town, Great Tradition
Gigi comes from Bosa, a town on the west coast of Sardinia, south of Alghero. A small city but with an extraordinary culinary tradition, so much so that it boasts two chefs with Michelin stars: one in Dubai and one near Verona.
A Large Family Dedicated to Restaurants
Gigi comes from a family of ten children, many of whom followed paths in the restaurant industry:
Brothers Scattered Around the World
- Antonio: involved in restaurants in various countries
- Sister in Basel: attended hotel school in Sardinia, worked in London, France, and Costa Smeralda. She has a product line called "Anna's Best" with the Swiss multinational Migros
- Brothers in Paris: always involved in restaurants, now retired
- Brother executive at Enel: worked in Kazakhstan, opening restaurants in England, Sardinia, and Paris
The Passion Passed Down
The passion for cooking wasn't born by chance but was fueled by necessity and love for their craft. Gigi says: "When I talk about cooking, people tell me: stop, you're making me hungry or making me want to eat, because we are very, very passionate about our profession."
Traditions Continue
Even in retirement, Gigi continues to practice his passion:
- He makes his own bread at home
- Prepares his own sauces
- Cooks for himself with the same care he dedicated to customers
- Sets the table "properly"
The Children: Between Tradition and Modernity
Gigi has four sons and one daughter, all born in England. They speak Italian and also know some words in Sardinian. Although they manage well in the kitchen, they always try to come home to enjoy "those lasagnas or something different" prepared by their parents.
The Philosophy of Service
The Lesson from Nino Pala
One of the most important formative moments in Gigi's career was the teaching of his employer, Nino Pala, who brought him to England. His philosophy was simple but profound:
"If you invite me to your house as a guest, how do you treat me? Well, of course, you're my guest, I have to treat you well. So think about customers in the dining room. When a customer comes into the dining room, remember one more thing: customers pay, so that's a good reason to treat them even better. And if you treat them well, they also give you a tip."
The Customer as Daily Bread
For Gigi, the customer isn't just a number but "our daily bread." The service must be impeccable because:
- If the customer is satisfied, they return
- If they return, they bring friends
- Word of mouth is the best marketing
A Significant Anecdote
In 1977, in Sardinia, Gigi helped a Florentine couple on their honeymoon find accommodation. When they offered him a tip at departure, he spontaneously replied: "Do I feel offended? No, if you give it to me, I'll gladly accept it. Perhaps I would have been offended if you didn't give it to me because I would have thought I didn't serve you well."
He was only 24-25 years old, but already possessed that philosophy that would accompany him throughout his career.
Generosity Pays Off
"Those who sow, reap" is another maxim that Gigi often repeats. Generosity, benevolence, and passion are investments that always return, not only in economic terms but also in personal satisfaction.
The Nonna Rita Restaurant Experience
A perfect example of this philosophy is the "Nonna Rita" restaurant in Bosa, where Gigi returned to eat. The service was such that:
- Five local fish appetizers
- Pasta with bottarga, mussels, and clams "creamed with local olive oil"
- Such quality that people "line up standing"
- Reservations are necessary
"You also have to book because people line up standing. I was embarrassed because I was eating and saw those waiting," Gigi recounts, testifying how quality and service create spontaneous demand.
Advice for New Generations {#advice-for-new-generations}
The Difficulty of Entering the UK Post-Brexit
Gigi is realistic about current challenges:
Barriers to Entry
- Employers must offer very high salaries to obtain visas
- For a young person starting out, it will be very difficult
- Only very good and qualified executive chefs have concrete possibilities
Hope for Change
"I hope that either the laws change or something happens," states Gigi, expressing hope that the opportunities he had may become available again for new generations.
The Problem in Italy
Gigi also identifies structural problems in the Italian system:
The Restaurant Crisis in Italy
- Wages are not sufficiently competitive
- The days are long
- There's a shortage of staff
The Proposed Solution
"Employers should be more conscious in Italy to create opportunities for young people to fulfill themselves in our world of restaurants and open their eyes well because otherwise young people don't enter the restaurant industry, they don't want to work."
The Ingredients for Success
According to Gigi's experience, you need:
From Young People
- Passion: the fundamental element that drives everything
- Patience: results come with time
- Commitment: total dedication to one's work
- Desire to learn: "there's always something to learn"
- Creativity and imagination: qualities that exist in young Italians
From Employers
- Benevolence: treat young people with respect
- Adequate compensation: pay dignified wages
- Growth opportunities: give young people space to fulfill themselves
- Encouragement: support creativity and dedication
The Testimony from Hotel School
Gigi's brother-in-law, a professor at a hotel school in Bosa, confirms that "there are very, very good kids who have the ability, have dedication to work, want to do it, imagination, they know, creativity." The talent exists, only the right opportunities are needed.
Conclusion: Looking to the Future with Optimism
The Tradition Continues
Despite difficulties and epochal changes like Brexit, Gigi maintains an optimistic vision. Italian cuisine has resisted and prospered for millennia, from Roman tanks for sardines to modern starred restaurants.
A Message to New Generations
"They will fulfill themselves, they will have like everyone a bit of ups and downs, one day better, one day worse, but they will go forward, they will fulfill themselves, and one day perhaps in 40, 50 years, they too will speak as we speak."
The Italian Legacy in the World
The Italian presence in world restaurants is a fact:
- Thousands of Italians in Brazil, Argentina, Venezuela, Caribbean
- "Everywhere you go there's always an Italian restaurant"
- Culinary contamination continues (like Sardinian empanadas in Argentina)
"You have to be a bit more optimistic"
With this note of positivity, Gigi leaves us a clear message: passion, dedication, and quality will always be rewarded. Italian cuisine is not just a matter of recipes, but of life philosophy, respect for the customer, love for one's craft.
As Gigi says: "Those who sow, reap", a truth valid as much in restaurants as in life.
This interview was conducted by Real Italian Restaurants and represents a precious testimony of half a century of Italian cuisine history abroad.
source https://www.realitalianrestaurants.com/blog/50-years-of-italian-cuisine-in-england-the-story-of-giuseppe-fois
No comments:
Post a Comment