An intimate conversation with the chef bringing authentic Sicilian cuisine to England
Table of Contents
- A Childhood Among the Markets
- A Philosophy of Direct Connection
- The Battle for Authenticity
- The Sicilian Touch
- A Personal Space, Inside and Out
- A Mission Shared
In a world where Italian cuisine is often misunderstood and misrepresented abroad, Antonio Vetrano stands as a guardian of authenticity. With 25 years of experience in England and a passion rooted in the vibrant streets of Palermo, Antonio has built more than just a restaurant—he's created a mission to educate and inspire.
A Childhood Among the Markets
Antonio's culinary journey began in the heart of Palermo, surrounded by the bustling markets of Ballarò, Capua, and Vucciria, near the city's iconic Cathedral on Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
"I grew up in the neighborhoods," Antonio recalls. "My culinary culture comes from the street—from what the fishmonger sold, the fruit vendor, the pastry maker who crafted cannoli by hand, and those who made fresh pasta."
As a child, whenever he skipped school, young Antonio would position himself by these artisans, watching intently as they worked their craft. It was an education that no culinary school could replicate.
"Years later, I realized that was the real cuisine," he reflects. "I was touching things with my hands. In the markets, you touch the produce, see the colors, encounter people selling fresh oregano and rosemary. The fishmonger who went fishing and brought his catch directly to market—it was all so immediate."
A Philosophy of Direct Connection
This hands-on approach became the foundation of Antonio's culinary philosophy, one he carries into every restaurant where he's worked and now into his own establishment.
"I don't like having food delivered to me without touching it," he explains passionately. "For me, it's skin to skin, body to body. Even with my customers, I enjoy having this direct relationship—I buy the ingredients, I prepare them, and then I see the customer's response."
Antonio regularly emerges from the kitchen to greet diners personally, asking how they enjoyed their meal and using their feedback to shape his menus. This dialogue between chef and customer creates a dining experience that's genuinely interactive and responsive.
The Battle for Authenticity
After 25 years in England, Antonio has witnessed the full spectrum of Italian cuisine's representation abroad—from the excellent to the problematic.
"The challenge is that previous generations camouflaged the recipes," he says frankly. "I try to educate customers, telling them: 'Ma'am, I know you've eaten it this way for forty years, but these things aren't original, they're disguised.'"
It's a delicate balance—respecting local tastes while gradually introducing authentic Italian flavors. Antonio plays this game strategically through his special boards, featuring dishes like swordfish Messina-style or oven-roasted lamb that slowly introduce customers to genuine Italian regional cuisine.
"When someone can distinguish between restaurants and say, 'That place makes original food,' versus another that has the same menu as everyone else—that's when I've succeeded," he explains.
Fighting for Quality Ingredients
One of Antonio's most vocal battles is for authentic Italian ingredients. He expresses frustration at finding inferior pasta in major suppliers while struggling to source brands like De Cecco.
"We who cook for customers need better quality," he insists. "Otherwise the pasta overcooks, the properties aren't good. I fight these battles."
Recently, at a national competition in London with the Italian Chefs Association, Antonio found himself alongside culinary luminaries like Locatelli and Davide Civitiello. He used the opportunity to advocate for better ingredient education.
"Why don't we make people understand that this flour is for pasta, this one is for biscuits, this one is for pizza?" he asks. "I'm the type who goes looking for things. I seek them out and find them."
The Sicilian Touch
For Antonio, certain ingredients are non-negotiable. When he returns to Sicily, he brings back bay leaves from gardens, rosemary from San Giuseppe Jato, oregano, Castelvetrano olives, and Marsala wine.
"I'm a bit stubborn about this, a bit Sicilian," he admits with a smile. "Without those specific ingredients, there's no authenticity. If you make carbonara and use bacon instead of guanciale, it's not the same thing. It's the same with herbs."
He insists on fresh market herbs over those sitting in boxes for years, preferring oregano that's endured 40-degree Sicilian heat—plants that suffered and developed more intense aromas.
His restaurant features Sicilian eggplants, zucchini, oranges, lemons, olives, and cheeses. He even makes sun-dried tomatoes with his sister, who maintains a homestead with chickens and a garden bursting with produce.
A Personal Space, Inside and Out
Walk into Vetrano Restaurant and you'll find Antonio everywhere—not just in the kitchen, but in the very fabric of the space.
"In my restaurant, there's Antonio inside and Antonio outside," he says. "I paint, I make and decorate the tables myself, I choose the artwork."
The walls feature pieces by Jack Vettriano, the famous Scottish artist whose name playfully echoes Antonio's own surname. Outside, a fountain anchors a garden setting that transforms magically in the evening.
"When evening comes and everything turns off, I light up the entire restaurant," Antonio describes. "It's like a theater—all the lights are on when you arrive, but during the performance, they dim and only the stage remains illuminated."
The outdoor space features carefully placed lighting and Sicilian "teste di moro" (Moorish heads) as centerpieces. In warmer months, couples dine by candlelight surrounded by this illuminated garden. Antonio's restaurant even features igloos for private dining—a unique offering in all of Lancashire.
Philosophy of a Chef
When asked about his journey, Antonio is refreshingly honest about the challenges.
"I've had excellent teachers, but only briefly," he shares. "What remains with me is passion and the constant desire to create. But there have been plenty of setbacks, plenty of water under the bridge."
Opening during the coronavirus pandemic, Antonio could have failed 15-20 times. But his versatility saved him—trained in pizza, desserts, fresh pasta, and main kitchen work, he could adapt when others couldn't.
His advice for aspiring restaurateurs? "Have tremendous passion and know what you're doing. Be as original as possible, because ultimately, originality wins. Look at quality, look at what you want, at what you truly are inside."
Even at 23-24 years old, when others encouraged him to open his own place, Antonio waited. "I wasn't ready yet," he explains. "Everyone who walks through the door—I need to know how to cook for them. If a customer asks for Châteaubriand, beef Wellington, Rossini, foie gras, anything—I should know how to make it. I don't like embarrassing the restaurant."
37 Years of Passion
Today, at Vetrano Restaurant, visitors find more than just a chef—they discover someone deeply in love with his work.
"Money comes and goes," Antonio reflects, "but passion in what you do is very important. You'll find someone with 37 years of kitchen experience, someone who competes in national English and Italian championships, someone who connects all the chefs in competitions not as enemies but as unified colleagues."
His achievements speak volumes: winner of the UK National Championship and Best Family Friendly Restaurant Newcomer awards, among others. But perhaps more impressive than the accolades is his unwavering commitment to authenticity.
"I'm Italian—after 25 years, I can never be English," he states proudly. "My flag is Italian. Mistakes have made me grow, step by step."
When discussing projects like Real Italian Restaurants, Antonio's enthusiasm is palpable.
"Projects that speak of positivity, that represent Italy abroad—I love them," he says. "We're Italian, we must carry our flag wherever we go. But there are those who do it well and those who don't. I hope to work with more people on projects like yours, so that many people know: this is a real Italian restaurant."
"It drives me crazy in the best way, because it means we're not alone. There are people who still believe in our grandparents, in the Italian brand, in our grandmothers."
Find Antonio
Vetrano Restaurant is located in Padiham, Burnley, about 40 kilometers from Manchester. While Burnley may be a small town, it's known for its football team in Serie A—and now, increasingly, for housing one of Lancashire's most authentic Italian dining experiences.
"I respect cream, I respect butter, I respect many ingredients," Antonio concludes. "But they must be used as ingredients like all the others, not in excess. You need to know when to subtract rather than add, to give flavor without overwhelming. That's difficult, but we Italians understand the idea of balance—mixing two, three, four ingredients, not ten or twelve to make a dish."
In Antonio Vetrano, Palermo's street markets have found an ambassador, and Lancashire's diners have found a true taste of Sicily.
Visit Vetrano Restaurant at vetranosrestaurant.co.uk to experience Antonio's passion firsthand.
source https://www.realitalianrestaurants.com/blog/from-palermo-s-streets-to-lancashire-s-tables-antonio-vetrano-story
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