Introduction
The authentic Italian dining experience in America often comes with its own unique set of challenges and adaptations. In this exclusive interview, we sit down with Emanuele Tampella, an Italian restaurateur who has spent over three decades in the hospitality industry across Europe and the United States. His journey from a small town in northern Italy to owning a restaurant in Rhode Island offers fascinating insights into the contrasts between European and American hospitality, the evolution of Italian cuisine abroad, and what it takes to succeed in the competitive restaurant business.
Table of Contents:
- Introduction
- The Early Years
- International Experience
- The American Chapter
- Running an Authentic Italian Restaurant in "Real America"
- Advice for Aspiring Restaurateurs
- Conclusion
The Early Years
Finding a Passion for Hospitality
Emanuele's culinary journey began somewhat unexpectedly at age 16 when he decided to quit school. "I wasn't good at all," he admits candidly. His mother's response was straightforward: "That's great. Now you go to work and you find a job." This led him to a position at a small pizzeria near his home in Varese, Italy, about 45 minutes north of Milan.
What started as a practical solution allowing him to earn money while also staying out later at night with his parents' blessing gradually evolved into a career path. "To me, everything started as fun, as a joke," Emanuele recalls, but it soon became much more.
The Palace Hotel A Foundation for Growth
In 1993, through one of his father's friends, Emanuele landed a position at the Palace Hotel in Varese, starting at what he describes as "the very bottom of the pyramid." This establishment would become his professional anchor a place he considers his "home" and would return to between seasonal positions throughout Europe.
International Experience
First Steps Abroad
Later that same year, Emanuele took his first international position in England. Though the experience lasted only three months "I was young, I was, I don't want to say immature, but it was totally different" it proved to be a formative experience that gave him confidence to pursue further opportunities abroad.
Seasons Across Europe
From 1995 onwards, Emanuele worked seasonal positions at some of Europe's most prestigious establishments:
- Villa Principalo Poldo in Lugano, Switzerland "one of the most beautiful hotels in the world"
- Winter seasons in St. Moritz in central Switzerland
- Summer season in South France (1999)
- Costa Smeralda in Sardinia (2001)
These experiences gave him valuable perspectives on hospitality across different European contexts before his next major career move.
The American Chapter
Crossing the Atlantic
After a brief stint on a Caribbean cruise line in 2004-2005, Emanuele made the life-changing decision to move to the United States on February 1st, 2005. "And since then, everything is history," he says.
Before opening his own restaurant, he gained experience in the American market working as a manager and director of operations for other establishments. Finally, in 2023, "a spot came available" and he seized the opportunity to open his own place.
Cultural Differences in Hospitality
One of the biggest challenges Emanuele faced was adapting to the fundamental differences between European and American hospitality cultures.
"There are two different worlds Europe and United States. Two different worlds, two different types of hospitality industry," he explains. "Europe is very, very based on service. Service in Europe is more of a career."
In contrast, he found that in the United States, "People do it because they have to earn some money during school. People do it because it is an easy way to make some money."
This difference in perspective presented both challenges and opportunities. By implementing European service standards in his American restaurant, Emanuele believes he can differentiate his establishment: "When you arrive at the point when you actually have that type of service and you deliver that type of service, you are in a different level of service industry here in the United States."
Running an Authentic Italian Restaurant in "Real America"
Balancing Tradition and Adaptation
Perhaps the most interesting aspect of Emanuele's story is how he navigates the complex landscape of Italian cuisine in America. His restaurant is located not in a tourist hub like New York, Miami, or Boston, but in what he calls "the real America" North Kingstown, Rhode Island.
"I don't work with tourists," he explains. "I do have the real American people. The real people that consider themselves Italian because they are the third or the fourth generation [of immigrants]."
This presents a unique challenge, as these Italian-Americans have inherited a culinary tradition that differs significantly from what Emanuele grew up with in northern Italy. Most Italian immigrants to America came from southern Italy, bringing different culinary traditions that evolved separately over generations.
Emanuele has had to adapt to dishes he had never encountered in Italy:
"I never knew that there was something called chicken parmigiana when I was in Italy or when I was in Europe. I never heard any such thing like that."
Similarly, he notes traditions like the "seven fishes" Christmas Eve dinner that Italian-Americans embrace but that aren't familiar even to contemporary southern Italians.
Signature Dishes
While adapting to local expectations, Emanuele maintains a sophisticated menu that includes:
- Papardelle with short rib rag (his most popular pasta dish)
- Branzino (his top-selling fish offering)
- Various veal preparations (scaloppine, parmigiana, Milanese)
- A specialty veal chop that's served either Milanese-style or parmigiana-style
The Customer Relationship
With a remarkable 95% repeat customer rate, Emanuele faces different challenges than restaurants in tourist areas. "I have people that come to my restaurant two to three times a week, people that come every week," he explains. This requires regular menu updates to keep things interesting for regulars who might otherwise "don't even look at the menu anymore."
The Art of Reading Customers
Emanuele takes pride in his ability to guide customers toward new experiences: "When people ask me what you recommend, a gate completely gets open. And now I'm going to sell you anything I want." This skill comes from attentive listening and understanding individual preferences the mark of a true hospitality professional.
Advice for Aspiring Restaurateurs
When asked what advice he would give to someone wanting to open an Italian restaurant in America, Emanuele's first response is candid: "Don't do it."
He explains that restaurant businesses have "the highest percentage of failure" due to:
- Inexperience "You can't just open a restaurant because 'oh, my mother, she left me all the recipes'"
- Bad management
- Failure to understand the local market "I would do something over here that they do in Miami [that] probably would never work"
Sourcing Ingredients
Emanuele takes a pragmatic approach to ingredients, balancing authenticity with affordability. For meat, he prefers American products, while for essentials like tomatoes and cheeses, he sources from Italy when possible.
However, he acknowledges the pricing constraints of his location: "If I want to sell it and I want to make money, I have to sell it. Imagine paying over $30 for a mozzarella and tomato. People would be waiting for me outside of the restaurant."
Conclusion
Emanuele Tampella's journey from a teenage job at a local pizzeria to owning his own restaurant in Rhode Island encapsulates the evolution of Italian cuisine in America. His story highlights the compromises and innovations necessary to succeed in the restaurant business while maintaining culinary integrity.
Operating from what was originally a 1940s diner, now transformed into a fine dining establishment, Emanuele serves his community seven days a week, creating an experience that keeps customers coming back regularly. His success lies not just in his extensive European training but in his ability to adapt while educating his customers about authentic Italian cuisine.
For those visiting Rhode Island, Emanuele's restaurant offers a taste of Italy filtered through the lens of an experienced restaurateur who understands both worlds a culinary bridge between Varese and the American Northeast.
source https://www.realitalianrestaurants.com/blog/from-varese-to-rhode-island-emanuele-tampella-s-culinary-journey
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